A Surfer's Love Letter to the Inexhaustibly Wild Ocean Beach

San Francisco Magazine Daniel Duane Colin Pyle An ode to a famously difficult surf break. Don't be scared, don’t be scared, don’t be scared. That’s what I said to myself when I saw the best wave of my whole year. I’d been in the water two hours at that point, paddling like mad for most of it. My arms and back were already quivering from the exhaustion of endlessly diving under waves and scrambling to avoid others. I also didn’t like how far out to sea I’d drifted. But that wave was j...